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Iyo kirabhu yemwana dhizaini inopfekedza vakadzi vane simba kwazvo mune zvematongerwo enyika zveUS

Kubva: 25th Kukadzi 2021 Scarlett Conlon, CNN

(Webhu: https://edition.cnn.com/style/article/max-mara-milan-fashion-week-ian-griffiths-interview/index.html)

 

11(Chikwereti: Andrew Harnik / AP)

 

Pane nguva mune yega yega inobudirira dhizaini dhizaini pavanowana chimwe chinhu chavakagadzira pakati pehutachiona hwekunzwa. Kumutungamiriri wekugadzira waMax Mara, Ian Griffiths, achiona kuti Mutauriri weImba Nancy Pelosi akange abvongodza bongozozo repasi nekupfeka "Fire Coat" yake tsvuku nekuda kwekuratidzira kwake kwakashata naDonald Trump muna 2018 yaive imwe yenguva idzodzo. Yakanga isiri, zvakadaro, chaizvo sezvaaifungidzira.

“Dzave 7 manheru uye ndakafonerwa kubva kuhofisi yedu yekuAmerican yekutaurirana. Ndanga ndichangosvika kumba ndichibva kubasa uye ndanga ndiri pakati pekushandurwa netirauzi rangu pamabvi angu, ”akaseka Griffiths parunhare achibva kuhofisi kwake kuReggio Emilia, kuchamhembe kweItari. "Vaida kuvimbiswa nekukasira kuti bhachi raive redu, ipapo mafoni akawanda akapinda kuzopa makotesheni. Ndakapedza husiku hwese ndichitenderedza tenderera nepamba pangu nemabhurugwa angu mumakumbo angu nekuti ndakanga ndisina nguva yekuabvisa!

"Izvi zvinokupa pfungwa yekuti kunze kwebhuruu kwaive sei."

Iyo nguva ingangodaro yakabata Griffiths pasi-pasi, asi Max Mara aisambova sarudzo yasara kuna Pelosi, uyo aive akapfeka bhachi rimwechete kumusangano wekutanga weMutungamiri Obama muna 2013. Chiratidzo cheItaly, icho chinozivikanwa nekamera mabhachi uye anoratidza kusvitsa kwayo makore makumi manomwe gore rino, agara ari eku "gadzira mbatya chaidzo dzevakadzi chaivo," akadaro Griffiths akaberekerwa kuBritain, uyo akapinda chikoro chakananga kubuda muchikoro muna 1987 uye akaramba aripo kubvira ipapo.

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(Nancy Pelosi akapfeka Max Mara. Chikwereti: Marvin Joseph / The Washington Post / Getty Mifananidzo)

Mugadziri akayeuka musangano wekutanga nemusiki wekutanga wechiratidzo, Achille Maramotti: “Akandiudza (ini) chinangwa chake chaive chekugara achipfekedza mudzimai wechiremba wemuno kana gweta; iye aisatombofarira kupfekedza machindakadzi kana kuverenga mukati muRome. Akasarudza zvine hungwaru nekuti pamakore makumi manomwe apfuura vakadzi avo (vamuka) naMax Mara vakaenda navo. Zvino panzvimbo pemukadzi wechiremba, ivo ndivo chiremba, kana asiriye director we (an) rese hutano hutano kuvimba. "

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(Chimiro cheBritannic chine matauriro eItari, Max Mara's AW21 muunganidzwa ndewe "vanozvigadzirira vamambokadzi," anonyora anoratidza manotsi. Chikwereti: Max Mara)

Griffiths anogona kuverenga Kamala Harris pakati pevakadzi vanobhururuka vepamusoro vanoyemura zvaakasika. Mutevedzeri weMutungamiriri weUS akaburitsa misoro yenyaya yechiratidzo munaNovember apfuura paakatorwa mifananidzo akapfeka rimwe rejasi rake rakafemerwa nemauto ra "Deborah" pamushandirapamwe muPhiladelphia.

"Aitaridzika semunhu aibva kuAmerican War of Independence, aine mireza kumashure uye achisimudza ruoko mudenga ... waive mufananidzo une simba," akadaro Griffiths. NaHarris naPelosi, akaenderera mberi, "zvairatidza kuti vaisango pfeka (majasi) sechinhu chinoshandiswa, asi nenzira yakanyatso taura (uye) semota kutaura chimwe chinhu chandinobvumirana nacho chose." Zvaive, akabvuma, zvine mubayiro unoshamisa.

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(Mutevedzeri weMutungamiri Kamala Harris vanotaura panguva yekutyaira kubuda kuti vanovhota rally muPhiladelphia, 2020. Chikwereti: Michael Perez / AP)

Kupemberera nhaka

Griffiths ari kucherechedza chiitiko chakakosha chegore rino nekupa rukudzo kuvakadzi vakasimba, vakazvimirira saHarris naPelosi. Mukuenderana nechiratidzo chekutanga chaMaramotti, anogona kunge asina hanya nemadzishe ega, asi ane chinangwa chekugadzira mbatya dzekupa vakadzi simba kuti vatonge nyika.

Zvinotaridza sekunge zvinokodzera chete kuti Griffiths ari kubatsira Max Mara kutara zuva rekuzvarwa kwake makumi manomwe nemanomwe ekuunganidza. Yakaburitswa digitally paMilan Fashoni svondo China, mutsetse weKudonha -Zima 2021 unopa simba sekusvika kwave kutarisira kubva kuItari zita

"Ndichipemberera chiitiko chikuru ichi, ndanga ndichifunga nezveMax Mara semukadzi anokunda anozvigadzira mambokadzi munguva yekunakidzwa pakukwira kwake," akafadzwa.

Iyo digital mharidzo yakatanga ine kumashure-kwe-zviono mifananidzo yemuenzaniso iri kuvharwa mujasi raMax Mara usati waenda kunzira yakatenderera mukati meTriennale di Milano. Iyo inoshamisa nzvimbo yakakombama, iyo yaiyeuchidza Griffiths weLondon's Regent Street, yakashongedzwa mumireza yaive nezviratidzo kubva kudura rezita kuti ipe kunaka kwekugadzwa kana kuratidzwa. Pakati pezviratidzo paive neetro yekushamisira iyo iyo dhizaini yakawana muma1950 Max Mara kushambadza kubva mudura rezvakanyorwa

Iyo chiratidzo "inotora mweya wese weunganidzwa," akadaro. "Sei (zvimwe) iwe uchitsanangura pfungwa yekunakidzwa uye epic ushingi weiyi 70-gore kukwira?"

Kubvira payakatanga muna 1951, Max Mara aifungidzirwa nerudo rwezvinhu zvese "zvechokwadi - zvichiganhurana neecccentrically - yeBritish," Griffiths akawedzera. Kune iyi muunganidzwa akatarisa kune-kutyaira kwetarakita, helikopta-kutyaira, vakadzi vanopayona nenzira yemakiriti ("echinyakare asi zvakare yakadzika midzi mune punk tsika"); majasi akapetwa akagadzirwa nemvere dzengamera yakachena; mabhachi anoshandiswa anourayiwa mune alpaca inoshamisira; organza shati "ayo anoshamisa jaunty"; uye masokisi machunky uye bhutsu dzekufamba.

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(Zvinoenderana nezvinyorwa zvekuratidza, iko kuunganidzwa i "nyika yemadhorobha-musanganiswa" ine cocooning aran knits uye slouchy tartan masiketi. Chikwereti: Max Mara)

Iko kuunganidzwa kwe "unconservative classics," akatsanangura, inovawo tsananguro inokodzera yemugadziri wacho. Chikamu chemweya wakasununguka, chikamu chequessessent gentleman, Griffiths aimbove mukirabhu mwana akachinja kuita mutungamiriri weimwe yedzimba dzepasichigare, dzimba dzepamusorosoro - uye ane chinodakadza chinokwezva chehomwe nzvimbo. Tichifunga kuti akashandisa yakawanda yeUK's Covid-19 kukiya pamba pake mumusha weSuffolk, kurudziro yake yebucolic kukurudzira kunoonekwa zvakanyanya.

"Hazvidziviriki kuti nyaya yangu zhinji inopindamo," akadaro, achinongedzera kumifananidzo ichangoburwa paakaundi ye Instagram. "Mifananidzo iyo yezviitiko zvangu ndiri kumaruwa munguva yezhizha, ndichifamba kwenguva refu nembwa dzangu, mapfekero andaimboita makore makumi matatu apfuura, tsika dzepunk, pfungwa yemweya wakasununguka unopandukira, kuramba kutambira gungano - iwo ese mazano ari pakati pekufunga kwangu. Kunyanya, (zvakadaro), ndinoishandisa kuitira kuti inakidze mukadzi waMax Mara, sezvo zviri zvese nezvake. ”

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(Unganidzo nyowani inoratidzwa kuMilan Fashion Vhiki inofungidzira chiratidzo cheMax Mara chiratidzo chengamera jasi. Chikwereti: Max Mara)

Kukanganiswa kwechirwere ichi nevatengi vaMax Mara kwaivewo kukosha kwakakosha, Griffiths akadaro.

"Zvakandiita kuti ndifunge zvakanyanya pamusoro pekuti ndiani (uye) uye ndinotenda zvakanyanya kutambura kwaakambove nako, uko kwakakandirwa mukuzorodzwa kwakapetwa nezvakaitika mugore rapfuura," akadaro. “Ndinoda kumuratidza achibuda mumatambudziko aya nekukunda.

"Ndiko kupemberera kwedu kwamakore makumi manomwe asi zvakare muunganidzwa wakatarwa kwechinguva munguva inotevera yechando, 2021, apo pasi rese, zvirambidzo zvichatanga kubviswa uye vanhu vanogona kunakidzwa nenyika yavanogara nekupembera."

Iko kuunganidza kuri kuuya, akadaro, "kupemberera kaviri, neimwe pfungwa". Mukushingairira kwaGriffiths kwekugadzira, kutaura kwechinyakare uye tariro, Max Mara ane zvakawanda zvekupemberera, futi.


Post nguva: May-07-2021